《本文上、下篇均轉貼於此(瘋狂長腳走天下--台灣的愛與寂寞~一位瑞士記者眼中的台灣)》

這是我在朋友長腳那所看到的一篇文,文中有許多值得省思的部份,
由於文章有一定的長度,故我擅自的將其拆成兩個部分(此時也才發覺,原來無名的網誌竟然有字數的限制?)。
而在這篇文中的內容除了原作之外,相關的原文彙整與中、英文的編排,
均由長腳花了許多的時間,辛苦統整而成,而在經過他的同意後,將此文轉貼在我的部落格中,在此由衷的感謝。

文中對我們熟悉的土地有著另一個角度的剖析與見解,
或許在某個範圍或既有的思維當中,不是我們所能接受的,
但以一個非國內人士在其停留的這段時間當中,所留下的一些看法,我是覺得很值得去深思的。
也希望所有看這篇文的朋友,能夠用一個正面、而非批判性方式的角度來看待,
畢竟,現在這個社會當中,已經存在了太多批判性的元素、與負面的情緒。

如果有任何的想法,歡迎您在回應當中一同分享。
也期待我們一同用更正面的態度來面對我們的土地。
      
Mouse(wangwalker)
=========================================

以下文章轉載自
南方電子報經本人彙整訂正及修改編排貼出,此篇可做全文轉貼,僅需列出本站文章連結即可,謝謝合作,感恩阿 

原作者:David Signer
翻譯者:T.Y. (Jade) Lee
德文修正:顏敏如

       和去年(2006)一樣,是在完全出乎意料之外的情況下接到他的電話–David Signer,蘇黎世Weltwoche週報國際版的編輯。不同的是,這次不再需要我提供採訪名單及有關台灣的訊息,而是傳來一份中文譯稿,希望我能代 發。

        Signer去春在台北採訪後,寫了篇報導刊登在瑞士德語區,有67年歷史,政治立場傾右的高品質讀物「世界週刊」上。約一個月後,該文即被譯為荷蘭文。
        我曾寫了篇文字對這份報導做重點介紹。半年後的現在,終於有了中譯文的出現,而中譯的原委,請看下面譯者自己的 說明。

        David Signer給我德文原稿的篇名是「Taiwan」,發表時,「Leben im roten Bereich生活於警戒之境」是週刊主編所下的標題,到了荷蘭則成了「Love and Loneliness in Taiwan台灣的愛與寂寞」。有趣的是,瑞、荷兩地不同的標題,顯示這兩份媒體對同一篇文章的不同閱讀角度,卻對於報導內容有了提綱挈領、畫龍點睛之效。

       我以德語原稿對照,訂正中譯文時,發現有些部份並未譯出。後來才知道,譯者所參照的,未發表的英譯並不完全。我除了把中譯文的句 子、標點做了更動之外,經過和Signer商量,還將未譯出的部份一併補足。現在讀者看到的將是完整的報導。

       Signer赴台之前,看 了台灣導演的電影、讀了台灣作者的翻譯小說、搜集有關資料、向我提出問題。這種種事前的周詳準備工作,就是要把自己「沈浸」其中,就是要儘量提供瑞士讀 者,台北較真實的一面。我們不但可以從他的報導讀出一位敬業新聞工作者的用心,更應自問,台灣的媒體何時能資助優良寫手對其他國家做深入報導。而他所提出 的,台灣如何使自己無可取代,則是值得朝野深思的議題。 

以上作者為顏敏如


下篇原文章刊登於2006年七月一日荷蘭的報紙

 

寫在翻譯前 :

這篇原文Love and Loneliness in Taiwan的作者David Signer是曾在台灣待過兩個星期的一位瑞士人,在歐洲所發表為荷文、德文的文章。筆者知道此文章是一位歐洲友人口述給我聽的。當時我聽到此文章時,對 歐洲人以自己文化來看台灣的觀感時震懾住了。但思之再三卻又時感驚訝又時感戚戚。我請友人為我翻譯為英文,我們也去函詢問TROUW該報轉譯中文發表在網 上的可能性等等,接著去函給原作者,原作者應允中文翻譯公開發表後,筆者開始著手,但因為私人因素所以延遲了工作。


作 者David Signer ,1964年生,是一位歐洲的人類學家,專研人類學與社會學。走訪過中東、非洲各國,對文化有深入的研究。其以歐洲人的文化背景與觀點來看台灣,讀者可以 得見作者著實下了番工夫去瞭解台灣的歷史背景、政治經濟與教育現況,尤其是其以不偏不倚的人文立場客觀地看台灣的現象。在翻譯過程中,筆者與原作者通過 mail。他告訴筆者無意為文使任何人不悅,但是以一個外國文化來看台灣,在某些特定事情上確實讓他吃驚。筆者不是專業翻譯者,且轉譯了兩次不同語言,字 字計較地去深入瞭解作者的寫作感情與文化背景是我努力的。


在您讀過這篇文章後,是否也正思索著作者所述的某些點正巧也 碰觸到深愛台灣的你我的寂寞與愛呢?

T.Y. (Jade) Lee於 Jan. 5, 2007

 

How is Taiwan? There is no country in the world where the people make so many working hours as in on – 2282 hours a year. Over 30% of the people work more than 62 hours a week.


世上沒有任何一個國家的人像台灣一樣,工作時數每年高達2,282小時,30%的人每週工作超過 62小時。

Taiwan is the second densest populated country in the world. Only in Bangladesh live more people per square kilometer. Although Taiwan is smaller than Switzerland it belongs to the 20 most successful industrial countries; Taiwan is market leader in notebooks and there is no country that has more mobile phones (1.14 per citizen of Taiwan).


台灣人口密度高居世界第二,只低於孟加拉。雖然台灣 面積小於瑞士,卻是20個最成功的工業國家之一。台灣是筆記型電腦製造的領導先驅,有世界第三大外匯存款,也是手機密度最高的地區(平均每人擁有1,14 支手機)。

Furthermore there are only three countries that have less sex than the Taiwanese, and according to the French magazine "Elle", Taiwanese women are the unhappiest women in the world. Taiwan has also the most near sighted people. So how does this all relate to each other?


然而,只有三個國家的性生活是少於台灣,且根據「Elle」雜誌 研究指出,台灣女性是世界上最不快樂的。台灣同時也是最多戴近視眼鏡的國家。這些現象之間彼此有何關聯呢?

Twenty years ago Taiwan changed from a dictatorial country to a democracy and speeded up the modernization in a fast pace. And now we see the strong Confucian working-moral besides gay-clubs and piercing studios. Colorful Taoist temples along side big glass skyscrapers and supermarkets that are open 24 hours a day. Since Tsjang Kai-sjek, the rival of Mao, fled to Taiwan in 1948, Taiwanwas seen as a rebellious province. Taipei as capital, with all direct surrounded sub cities, has a population of around 8 million people and is in a sense a post modern version of Peking .


20年前台灣從獨裁轉型為民主,現代化與自由化同時快速進行。 也因此,嚴謹的儒家工作倫理與同志酒吧、刺青商店同時存在。多彩的道家廟宇,就在電子產業的玻璃維幕高樓及24小時營業的超市旁邊。自從毛澤東的對手蔣介 石1948年退守到台灣,中國就一直把台灣視為叛逆的一省。如果自由化繼續進行,二十年後的中國可能就像現在的台灣。而連同附近城鄉合計約有800萬人口 的台北,就是北京現代化後的願景。家庭是台灣社會變遷中特別引起注意的生活範疇。

In many households the man and woman both have a job, they not only make long working hours, but also even in different cities. They only see each other in the weekends. The children are often raised by the grandparents who display a worldview that has almost nothing to do with current reality. For Taiwanese there is almost nothing more important than good education for their kids, therefore they are overloaded with courses and extra classes after regular school often till late in the evenings.


在許多家庭中,夫妻兩人不只是長時間工作,甚至在不同城市工作,且保有各 自的住處,只在週末見面。由祖父母帶大的小孩,其價值觀也因此來自幾乎是與現實脫節的世界。對台灣人來說,沒有任何事比給孩子更好的教育來得重要,因此孩 子們常常在晚間也必須承受許多額外的課程。


In Taipei I visit a surgeon at his home. His 6-year-old daughter is taught English at school, but she has extra classes English in the evenings besides painting, dance and piano lessons. With proudness she plays classic piano parts without music paper. In August the whole family goes to the USA to improve her English even more at a summer camp.


我 在台北時拜訪了一位外科醫生,他六歲的女兒已經在學校學英文,但是在晚間,她除了必須再學英文之外,還有畫畫、舞蹈和鋼琴。她很驕傲地不用樂譜就彈得出古 典曲子。八月,他們全家會到美國去,讓女兒參加兩週的暑期營隊,以增進英文能力。


I ask the father if he is not afraid that the pressure on the kids might be too high. From Japan more and more stories are heard of children who commit suicide because of the shame of failing an exam. "Yes, sometimes all the effort is for nothing," says the surgeon. "Sometimes the musical wonder kids play virtuously when they are 14, but when they become 25 the difference fades between the kids who started only at the age of 10". The father also mentions the competition between the parents that cannot be avoided.



我 問這個父親,難道他不怕給孩子太多壓力?不是常聽說,日本孩子因考試失敗感到羞恥而自殺嗎?「是的,有時所有努力會化為烏有。」醫生說,「比如有些鋼琴神 童,十四歲就能將琴彈得很完美,但到了25歲時,他們彈琴的技巧則無異於從十歲才學起的水平。」這父親也提到在他的周遭環境中,父母與父母之間無法避免的 競爭,他甚至用了「全副武裝」這樣的字眼。


And on top of that there is the 1 child policy – in Mainland China> obligatory, inTaiwan based upon choice and quite common. So of course there is more money and energy spent on the child to stimulate it even more. The emphasis upon educating and performance of the kids is characteristic for all Confucian countries like country-region China, Japan, Korea and Singapore


一胎化在中國是政策,在台灣則成了可以自由選擇的目標,和大家庭比起來,當然就會把更多時間和金錢花在提昇 唯一的孩子身上。強調教育與成就是深受儒家思想影響國家的特質,例如中國、日本、韓國和新加坡。

But in Taiwan the people want the world to show that they are the better than China . From 1895 till 1945 Taiwan was occupied by Japan, after that period it belonged to China. After the Second World War when Mao's army defeated the nationalistic army of Tsjang Kai-sjek, they fled with 1,5 million citizens (mostly of them high developed and upper class), 500.000 soldiers, and the national treasure to Taiwan. Mao as well as Tsjang Kai-sjek saw themselves as the one and only representation of China. The official name of Taiwan is still "Republic of China".



台灣不僅也是如此,更由於歷史背景因素,台灣人希望展現給世 界的是一個更好的中國。從1895年到1945年台灣被日本佔據,接著被中國接收。二次大戰後毛澤東戰勝國民黨的蔣介石,蔣介石帶著150萬人民眾(大多 數是有高教育水準的上層階級)、50萬軍人和國家寶藏來到台灣。毛澤東和蔣介石都自視為中國的唯一代表。至今台灣的正式官方名稱為「Republic of China」。



The USA armed Taiwan as a buffer against communistic China and Tsjang Kai-sjek never gave up his goal to conquer China again up to his death in 1975. Taiwannowadays has a population of 24 million people, China 1,3 billion. The island country is economically a world power but politically isolated. Taiwan does not even have the status of "observer" in the UN and is only recognized as a country by 27 other countries like Palau, Kiribati and ,Swaziland .


美國高度武裝台灣以對抗共產主義的中國大陸,蔣介石直到1975年過世為 止,不曾改變他收復中國的目標。台灣有2,400萬人口,大陸13億,這個海島有世界超強的經濟,但是在政治上卻是孤立的,台灣甚至沒有聯合國觀察者的身 份,只被27個國家所承認,像是帛流、吉里巴斯共和國和史瓦濟蘭等。

This is because China refuses any political relations with countries that recognize Taiwan as an independent country, and who does, especially today, want China as an opponent?


這是因為大陸拒絕和承認台灣的國家有外交關係,特別是今 天,誰承認了台灣就無異與大陸為敵。在台灣可以感受到中國以一種矛盾的方式存在。

Continuously Taiwan experiences the presence of China like a big brother you want to push off but always keeps the lead no matter the distance. Taiwan always stipulates that it respects human rights, nobody will die from starvation, there is freedom of thought and press, Taiwan is progressive, democratic, liberal, cosmopolitan, post-industrial and post modern; the better China. But is seems like the citizens of Taiwan situate themselves in a jumbo jet: if the pace slows down below a certain speed, then it will crash.


在台灣可以感受到中國以一種矛盾的方式存在。中國就像一 個大哥,台灣想要和他保持距離,可是這位大哥卻又權威性地不肯離開。台灣尊重人權、沒人苦於饑餓、有言論與媒體自由;台灣進步、民主、自由、國際化、後工 業化、後現代化;總之,是一個更好的中國。在台灣可以察覺到一種清醒、一種警覺,這情形讓人想起以色列。這個中東國家除了強調它的合法性之外,也要表現得 比敵對的鄰邦更好。可是台灣人民則更像是一架使勁飛翔的噴射只要把速度減慢到某個程度,就會墜落。

Sheena Chang is editor at the China Times. Her daughter of four is having extra courses in English. Sheena is keen on getting her daughter to a national University. These are better than the private universities and even cheaper. This leads to the fact that especially children born from highly educated and rich parents, who can afford the extra courses, can enter the 'better' Universities. The fee is low there and children of the lower class have to pay extra for the 'lesser" Universities.


Sheena Chang是中國時報的編輯,女兒四歲時已經上英文的課外補習。她希望女兒能讀國立大學。國立比私立大學更好而且更便宜。這導致一個弔詭的現象:特別是受 高等教育且較有錢的父母,他們能提供孩子額外的課程學習,讓孩子能進入收費少的「好」大學;而低社會階層的孩子則只好去「壞」的大學。久而久之,自然會加 深貧富懸殊與城鄉差距。

Sheena Chang comes with another Taiwan-record: nowhere in the world kids sleep less than in Taiwan. She calls people like her 'pm-people', coming from post meridian. 'I am going to work at 2 pm (14:00) and return at 10 pm (22:00)'. Most people working in the IT business work at night, because their customers in Europe and USA are then in their daytime. The children of these 'pm-people' stay up till midnight with them: they eat together, watch TV and play computer games. But the kids in contrary to their parents have to get up at 7 am to get to school.


Sheena Chang還展示了另一個台灣紀錄:根據她的統計,世界上沒有一個地方的孩子睡眠像台灣孩子那麼少。她把自己和與她同樣的人稱為「pm people」。「我從下午兩點開始工作,在晚上十點回家。」大部份資訊科技產業的人在晚間工作,因為這剛好是歐美客戶的白天時間。「pm people」的孩子和他們一起熬到午夜,一起吃東西、看電視、玩電玩。但是和大人們相反地,孩子又必須在早上七點起床。

She tells the story so business-like that I carefully ask if that does not hurt the health of the kids. 'Maybe so', she says, 'but it makes them also stronger. This way it makes them stronger to cope with pressure later. The biggest concern is the grandmothers who spoil the kids. They only stuff them with food, but don't teach them anything.'


她這種不帶情感的客觀陳述,讓我小心地問,這樣不會損害孩子的健康嗎? 「也許是。」她說,「但這讓孩子有更強的抵抗能力,也能學會處理將來的壓力。最大的問題是,祖母寵壞孩子,她們只餵給食物但不教任何事。」

One evening I meet a psychiatrist in a hot spring spa ( besides visiting karaoke bars one of the favorite free time fun activities for Taiwanese). At 10 pm he says he has to go home to help his daughter with her homework. 'At this hour?' I ask surprised. 'Sure, tomorrow she will have chemistry exam, and I will take over the theory with her once more.'


某晚我和一位精神科醫生一起泡溫泉(就在卡拉ok旁邊。卡拉ok是台 灣人喜歡的娛樂活動之一)。晚上十點時,他說他必須回家去幫女兒複習功課。「在這個時間?」我很驚訝。「當然,明早九點她有化學考試,我得幫她再複習一 次。」

A Swiss woman who lived in Taiwan for a long time says: 'the only thing that counts for these people is food and making money. Love and sex are not important. If somebody says 'I love you', then it means nothing, but if he gives you a big piece of his meat then you know you are important for him.'


一 個長時間住在台灣和中國的瑞士女人告訴我:「對這些人來說,重要的是錢和吃,愛與性不重要。如果有人說我愛你,那是沒有意義的。但是如果他給你一塊盤子裡 的肉,你就知道,你對他來說很重要。」

The Taiwanese eroticism is not easy to understand. The people are prude; besides the city center of Taipei you hardly see any couples hold their hand or exchange other tender behavior. But at the other hand if you look at the sales girls of betel nuts, they sit in their bikini in a glass box, which you can recognize easy by the green neon-star along side the road. You stop your car, she comes out, bends over in front of the window so you can have a good look at her décolleté, she walks wiggling her bum to the get the order and gives you the nuts with a tempting smile. The euphoric feeling and the sweating that comes after chewing the betel nuts, makes the happiness complete.


台灣人的情慾是不容易瞭解的,人們不善於表現情感。 除了台北市中心之外,很難看得到成雙成對的人手牽手或是交換溫柔情感。但另一方面,卻可以看到檳榔西施穿著比基尼泳裝坐在玻璃櫥窗裡。由於有個綠色心形霓 虹燈,所以遠遠就可以認得出來。你停下車,她走出來,彎下身軀面對你打開了的車窗,你可以從她深裁的前襟看到裡面。她踩著高跟鞋,扭動臀部,走回去拿你訂 的東西,然後帶著誘惑的微笑遞給你檳榔。嚼檳榔後出汗與暈眩的快感則是完全的快樂。

These nuts cost two times as much when bought from these girls than normal, but especially the taxi and truck drivers don't care to pay the difference. These sales girls are mostly found in the countryside; the mayor of liberal Taipei tries to ban them from the city center.


這些檳榔西施以雙倍的價錢賣出檳榔,計程車和卡車司機則視為當然。檳榔西施通常散佈在看不到温柔的鄉間,自由台北的市長則試著阻止她們在市中 心營業。

Also traditional healers sell their wonder medicines accompanied by sparsely clothed girls. But the most funny is the performance of these 'sexy girls' at weddings and even funerals. You can see a long row of cars and trucks; on one of them is the coffin with the deceased, on another there are the hired mourners, and on a third you see the dancing 'sexy girls'. It seems that the audience, including children, experiences no conflict between the table-dance atmosphere and the mourning about the deceased. 'The surviving dependents pay a lot of money for such performances in order to have a lot of people attend and honor the deceased', so people tell me.


還有,賣傳統中藥的人把情慾當成促銷的工具,同時提供神奇的中藥及「輕裝」的女孩。最讓人驚奇的是,這些「性感女孩」也在 婚禮甚至葬禮上出現!那通常是由汽車和卡車組成的車陣,其中一部車上是亡者的棺木,另一部是哭號的女人,在第三部車上,則可以看到跳豔舞的性感女郎。包括 孩子們在內的觀眾群,顯然不認為,一場「桌上熱舞」的氣氛與對死者的哀傷有任何衝突。「家屬付許多錢給這樣的表演,才能讓許多人來參加葬禮並懷念亡者。」 這是當地人所告訴我的。

By the official prude it is hard for love couples, and even spouses, to find a private space. One of the favorite places to get some intimacy was the MTV, cabins where you can watch movies. But at a certain moment the police intervened, the cabins could not be closed anymore and a guard could at any moment intrude the cabin. So the love couples changed to the parks and the KTV's: buildings with lot of rooms where you can sing karaoke as a couple or as a group. But also here a waiter could enter any time. At least each room has a surprising big closable toilet. Nowadays the motels are doing good business, they are quite cheap, 20 euros for three hours. But there is one disadvantage, they are mostly situated outside the center, so you need a car.


因著窄小的空間,情侶或甚至是夫妻要有個獨處的地方,並不容 易。直到上學年齡,孩子都還和父母親睡在一起。長久以來,MTV是個深受喜愛的,可以私密約會的地方。在包廂中依自己的喜好選擇要看的電影。不知從什麼時 候開始有了檢查制度,包廂不再可以關門,檢查人員隨時可以進入,所以情侶改到公園或KTV。KTV是有許多房間的建築,情侶或是親朋好友可在裡面唱卡拉 OK,也可以點飲食,但是服務人員依然可以隨時進來。不過每個包廂中又有一個引人注意的,很大,且可以上鎖的洗手間。人們對Motel的需求已有好一段時 間,可以相當便宜地在那裡築起愛之巢,三小時約二十歐元。缺點是離市中心較遠,需要自己有車。

It's easier to find a nice restaurant. In Taipei there are thousands of food facilities. Even on the top of the chimney of the garbage burning installation you can find a rotating restaurant, called 'star tower'.


相較之下,要找個好的餐廳就容易得多了。在飲食方面,台北有著地理上 的優勢。日本、中國、韓國、泰國、美國、歐洲及台灣原住民的菜餚錯綜交織。台北有無數個餐館,甚至於焚化爐煙囪頂端都還有旋轉餐廳,叫做『摘星樓』。


Apparently there is a close relation between food and sex according to the Taiwanese. Continuously you hear what good the different dishes will do for, in general, men. Especially local dishes like: cow eyes, bee larvae, swallow nests (the spittle of birds), grasshoppers, dried elk penis, shark fin, sea cucumber, mushrooms, dried human afterbirth, unborn chicken from the egg (raw), ginseng, bear bone, duck tongue, sea horse, but above all snake. On the Huaxi night market a market salesman hangs a still living snake on a rope and cuts it open in full length, he catches the blood in a glass and offers the audience to have a taste. After that he also removes the gall bladder and squeezes it out in a glass. The gel slimy substance is said to work extensively on the libido, as the salesman demonstrates by moving up and down chopsticks between his legs.


對 台灣人而言,食物與性之間顯然有某種緊密的關係。每上兩道菜就可以聽到,「這是特別對男人重要的食物」。這些地方上的珍饈,包括牛眼、幼蜂、燕窩、炸蟋 蟀、鹿鞭、魚翅、海參、香菇、胎盤、未孵化的生雞蛋、人蔘、熊掌、鴨舌、海馬、尤其是蛇。週末在華西街夜市可以大開眼界:一條掛在繩子上面活生生的蛇,被 人完整地將皮剝下來,滴在杯中的蛇血則提供觀眾品嚐。然後殺蛇人也取出蛇膽,把膽汁擠入杯中,黏黏軟軟的膠狀物據說很健康,能提高性慾;宰蛇的人還用筷子 在他兩腿間清楚地示範。在他後面是些老饕就著露營的小桌子,正在喝蛇湯、龜湯。

The women however will not get happier by it.


不過女人並不因 此而快樂。

For instance take Chang Mei-Ling. She is in her mid thirties, studied French litterature and works for a French company. She is single. Everything that would be in man's favor is in her disadvantage, a good education, good job, high income, all in her disadvantage. And besides that she is taller than average. A man in Taiwan wants to be better educated than his wife, have a better income, and to be at least one head taller. She herself would like to have a husband like that. But there are not many that will meet these criteria, besides the fact that she has hardly time for a relation.


Chang Mei-Ling,三十多歲,單身,讀羅馬語言學系並在法商公司工作。她說,高教育、好職業、高所得等等在男人身上加分的條件,在她卻成了減分;此外她也 長得相當高。但是台灣男人要教育程度比太太高,收入比太太高,而且也要比太太高過一個頭。她自己或許也同樣這麼希望。而能夠符合這些條件的少數人往往有許 多工作,所以沒時間去找另一半。

(續下篇)

延伸閱讀:《轉貼》台灣的愛與寂寞~一位瑞士記者眼中的台灣(下)

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